Gayle applied Bayer rose systemic for the second time. I have not seen any spider mites this year. They always made an appearance, especially on some of the varieties. I feel that the Bayer systemic has kept the mites away.

The variety "Glory Days" developed chlorosis, some leaves almost white. This could be caused by wet-roots but not the case here. Applied a teaspoon of FE330 chelated iron in a gallon of water. You could almost watch the leaves green up after a week or so.

I will put a half-dose of Milorganite on the roses and that will be the last fertilizer for this year. I think the rule for this area is no food after July but there is a good amount of foliage on the plants and they should be using food. The heavy rains that have fallen in this western part of NJ have probably leached out much of the nitrogen fertilizer from the soil.

Bayer Rose does not list midge on the label but it does list aphids and spider mite. I get both but am hoping that it will knock the midge out during the five week effective time.

The growth on my plants has been excellent so far, quite amazing after suffering a major winter setback. As I said earlier, I am pinching the roses to build up the plants. Pinching is a good investment in your plants and everyone should consider performing the practice in the springtime.

Roses Inc., the commercial rose growers association, has changed their name and will now include all greenhouse flower crops. It is sad to see what has happened to commercial rose production in the USA. Imported roses have done the damage. A year or so ago, the President of Roses Inc testified before a Senate group - to no avail. I will discontinue my membership in the organization because of the limited rose information.

Milorganite supplies many micro nutrients along with the nitrogen. I feel that it results in darker green foliage.

The yearly addition of Iron Sulfate has made a tremendous difference in the growth of my roses. I wouldn't be growing many rose plants in my soil if I did not discover it. Every year the availablity of Iron Sulfate in Garden Centers has lessened. Places that used to carry it say they never did!! I found a source at Hydro Gardens and ordered 50 lbs. The cost is about the same as I used to pay at the Garden Centers but I must pay the freight. Colorado to New Jersey, about $30. Like I said, I can't grow roses without it.

If you are also looking for Iron Sulfate and have had no success you could try Hydro Gardens web sight.
Sprayed the roses with Daconil today, the temperature was in the low 70's so I should not see any damage to the leaves. I had used Orthene earlier in the week to control aphids.

I will be pinching the plants this year to build them up. I like to pinch half of the stems of the first crop. Pinching has a very benificial effect on the plants. It also splits up the "crop" so you will have roses over a longer period of time. It also adds foliage to the plant which improves the half that did not get pinched.

I have treated the soil with insecticide to eliminate any remaining rose midge. Rose midge were responsible for many lost flowers last year.

I had placed a heavy dose of 10-10-10 (2/3 handfull) around each rose plant a couple of weeks ago and I can see the difference. I will apply a lesser dose in a couple of weeks.

The deer have done a job on the roses this year and have hurt my effort to build up the plants. Last weekend I went to Home Depot and picked up some 7' steel fence posts and rolls of 7' netting. It is keeping the deer out. Mechanically excluding the deer seems to be the only effective way.
I have been unable to spray the roses due to the wet weather, wish me luck.

The winter was tough on the roses, not unexpected because I lost foliage late in the season. Remember, it is very important to keep the foliage on your plants. Fungicide - insecticide, don't miss on your spray schedule. I have sprayed the rose canes three times with a fungicide this year. I want to keep the canes healthy. hr March 19, 2000
Started pruning the roses this weekend. I have been cutting lower than I normally would due to winter damage. It is important to cut out the dead and damaged wood.
As soon as the pruning is complete I will spray the rose canes with Daconil.

There is not much time for the plants to build up more foliage but it should be sufficient to produce the necessary foliage to help build up "sugar" levels to get through the winter.

I picked up a 12 Volt sprayer from Tractor Supply with a spray tank. I use my lawn tractor battery for power. It produces about 50 pounds of pressure, which is ample for outdoor spraying needs. When switching from hand-pumping-a-sprayer to power-spraying I find that more material is needed (gallons) to do the same amount of rose bushes. The "coverage" is greatly improved, as should be the control.

I will continue to use granular diazanon on the soil and Orthene on the foliage. Next spring I will start the treatment shortly after pruning.

It has not been a good year to increase my rose photo library, dry hot weather the main reason. As us rose growers say....next year.

The roses, helped by rain and cooler days, are making a great come-back and once again there are cut roses on the dining room table.

I fed the roses, for the last time this year, with Ammonium Nitrate (available from farm supply stores, mine from Agway). It is a powerfull source of Nitrogen and can burn if used improperly. It contains about 16% of nitrate nitrogen which is immediatly available. The balance is in the form of ammonium. The ammonium must be converted to nitrates for use by the plant. Three pounds of ammonium nitrate per 1000 square feet of soil is all that should be applied.

Canker, midge keeping me busy this year. Using Benomyl for disease control with an occasional Funginex as the alternate. For midge, Orthene at the higher label dose, diazanon granuals for the rose beds.

First crop is finished, heat in NJ took it's toll on the flower quality. However, the foliage does look good and the next crop should be excellent.